DIY: How To Put Up Crown Molding On Kitchen Cabinets

Can you put crown molding on kitchen cabinets? Yes, you absolutely can! Adding crown molding to your kitchen cabinets is a fantastic way to enhance their look, giving your kitchen a more polished and custom feel. It’s a project that many homeowners can tackle themselves with the right tools and a bit of patience. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know for successful cabinet crown molding installation.

Why Add Crown Molding to Cabinets?

Adding crown molding to cabinets is more than just a decorative choice; it serves several purposes:

Elevates Aesthetics: It creates a finished, high-end look, making your cabinets appear more substantial and integrated into the room.
Hides Imperfections: Crown molding can cover any gaps between the top of your cabinets and the ceiling, which can often be uneven or unsightly.
Adds Architectural Interest: It provides a touch of classic design, similar to how kitchen cabinet cornice treatments can add character.
Increases Perceived Value: A well-executed crown molding installation can make your kitchen seem more luxurious and can be a selling point if you ever plan to sell your home.

Choosing Your Cabinet Molding Types

The world of cabinet molding types is diverse. The most popular choice for this project is, of course, crown molding, but there are variations to consider:

Traditional Crown Molding: This is the classic choice. It has a profile that typically angles outward from the wall at a specific pitch. When installed on cabinets, it creates a beautiful cornice effect.
Riser Molding: A simpler, often flatter molding that can also be used for a clean, modern look.
Applied Molding: These are decorative elements that can be applied to the cabinet doors or frames, often used in conjunction with or instead of crown molding at the top.

For the purpose of this guide, we’ll focus on traditional crown molding for the tops of your upper cabinets.

Materials You’ll Need for Cabinet Crown Molding Installation

Gathering the right materials is crucial for a smooth cabinet crown molding installation.

Crown Molding: Measure your cabinet runs carefully to determine the linear footage needed. Always add about 10-15% extra for cuts and potential mistakes.
Miter Saw: Essential for precise angled cuts. A sliding compound miter saw is ideal for crown molding mitering.
Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements.
Pencil: For marking cuts and placement.
Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes during cutting and installation.
Nail Gun (Brad Nailer or Finish Nailer): With appropriate nail sizes (16 or 18 gauge).
Air Compressor (if using a pneumatic nailer):
Vacuum or Dust Collection System: To manage sawdust.
Level: To ensure your molding is straight.
Stud Finder: To locate cabinet support framing.
Wood Glue: For reinforcing joints.
Wood Filler or Caulk: For filling nail holes and gaps.
Putty Knife or Spatula: For applying filler/caulk.
Sandpaper: Various grits for smoothing.
Paint or Stain: To match your cabinets or ceiling.
Primer: If painting.
Paintbrushes or Rollers:
Drop Cloths: To protect your countertops and floor.
Clamps: Can be helpful for holding pieces while glue dries.
Crown Molding Adhesive: A strong construction adhesive designed for molding. This is key for a secure bond, especially on longer runs where nails might not provide enough support on their own.

Planning Your Kitchen Cabinet Trim Installation

Before you start cutting, thoughtful planning is essential for successful installing cabinet trim.

Measuring Your Cabinets

Measure Each Run: Measure the length of the top of each cabinet section. If you have an L-shaped kitchen, you’ll have two runs to consider.
Account for Corners: If you have inside or outside corners where cabinets meet, you’ll need to plan your miter cuts accordingly.
Total Footage: Add all the measured lengths together. This is your base requirement.
Add for Waste: As mentioned, buy at least 10-15% extra molding to account for test cuts, mistakes, and tricky angles.

Deciding on the Molding Profile

The style of your kitchen and cabinets will influence your choice of cabinet molding types.

Simple & Modern: A flat or slightly profiled molding can complement contemporary kitchens.
Traditional & Ornate: More elaborate profiles with detailed carvings are perfect for classic or farmhouse styles.
Cabinet Crown Molding Installation: Consider the depth and thickness of the molding. It shouldn’t overhang the cabinet doors or drawers too much, as this can look awkward and impede access.

How Much Molding to Buy?

Let’s say you measure your cabinet tops and get the following lengths:
* Cabinet run 1: 8 feet
* Cabinet run 2: 10 feet
* Cabinet run 3: 6 feet

Total required: 8 + 10 + 6 = 24 feet.
Adding 15% for waste: 24 feet * 1.15 = 27.6 feet.
So, you would likely need to purchase three 8-foot pieces or two 12-foot pieces to ensure you have enough. It’s always better to have a little extra than not enough.

Mastering Crown Molding Mitering for Cabinets

The success of your cabinet crown molding installation hinges on accurate cuts, especially the crown molding mitering.

Understanding Crown Molding Orientation

The key to cutting crown molding correctly is to understand how it sits against the miter saw and the cabinet. Unlike baseboard molding, crown molding has a spring angle. When you cut it for a corner, the molding is placed upside down and backward on the saw.

Setting Up Your Miter Saw for Crown Molding

Compound Miter Saw: A compound miter saw, which bevels its blade, is the best tool for this.
Bevel Angle: For standard 38-degree and 52-degree spring angles commonly found in crown molding, you’ll typically set your saw’s bevel to 31.6 degrees.
Miter Angle: For a standard 90-degree corner, you’ll set your miter angle to 45 degrees.

Cutting Inside and Outside Corners

Inside Corner: To cut for an inside corner, the two pieces of molding will meet with their longest points touching the ceiling or cabinet top. Place the molding upside down and backward on the saw. For a 90-degree inside corner, you’ll make two 45-degree miter cuts. The first cut will be with the saw set to 45 degrees (miter angle) and 31.6 degrees (bevel angle). The second piece will be cut with the saw oriented in the opposite direction (mirrored).
Outside Corner: For an outside corner, the molding pieces will meet with their shortest points touching the cabinet. Again, place the molding upside down and backward. For a 90-degree outside corner, you’ll make two 45-degree miter cuts, but the orientation of the molding on the saw is crucial. The first cut is again at 45 degrees miter and 31.6 degrees bevel. The second piece is cut with the saw oriented in the opposite direction.

Using a Miter Saw Jig or Crown Molding Setting

Some miter saws have specific settings or jigs for crown molding, which can simplify the process. Consult your saw’s manual. If not, the “upside down and backward” method is standard.

Table: Common Crown Molding Mitering Angles (for 90° Corners)

Corner Type	Miter Angle	Bevel Angle	Molding Orientation on Saw
Inside	45°	31.6°	Upside down, backward
Outside	45°	31.6°	Upside down, backward

Note: These angles are standard for molding with a 38°/52° spring angle. Always test your cuts on scrap pieces.

Step-by-Step: Installing Crown Molding on Kitchen Cabinets

Now that you have your materials and have practiced your cuts, let’s get to the cabinet crown molding installation.

Step 1: Preparation

Clear the Area: Remove any items from the top of your cabinets and clear the workspace around them.
Protect Surfaces: Lay down drop cloths on your countertops and floor.
Clean Cabinets: Ensure the top edges of your cabinets are clean and free of dust or grease.
Locate Studs/Cabinet Supports: Use your stud finder to mark the locations of wall studs or the solid framing within your cabinets where you can drive nails. If you’re only attaching to the cabinet boxes themselves, aim for the front and back rails where the cabinet faces connect to the sides. This is critical for a secure installation.

Step 2: Cutting the First Piece

Measure and Mark: Measure the length of the cabinet run where your first piece of molding will go.
Make Your First Cut: Make a square (90-degree) cut on one end of the molding piece if it needs to butt up against a wall or an adjoining piece without a miter. Then, make your miter cut for the corner. For an inside corner, the longest edge of the miter should be the length you measured. For an outside corner, the shortest edge should be the measured length.
Test Fit: Hold the piece up to the cabinet to ensure the fit is snug and the angle is correct.

Step 3: Installing the First Piece

Apply Adhesive: Run a bead of crown molding adhesive along the back of the molding where it will contact the cabinet. This adds strength and helps fill small gaps.
Position the Molding: Place the molding against the cabinet top, ensuring the mitered end fits snugly into the corner. Use your level to make sure it’s straight along the top.
Nail in Place: Using your nail gun, drive brad nails through the molding and into the cabinet framing or solid wood supports. Start from the corner and work your way out. Space nails about 16-24 inches apart. Aim to drive nails at an angle into the cabinet structure for better hold.
Wipe Away Excess Glue: Immediately wipe away any excess adhesive that squeezes out with a damp cloth.

Step 4: Cutting and Installing Subsequent Pieces

Measure and Cut: Measure the next section. Remember to account for the angle of your corner cut. When joining two pieces of crown molding, the mitered ends should meet perfectly in the corner.
Apply Adhesive: Apply crown molding adhesive to the back of the new piece.
Position and Nail: Fit the mitered end into the corner, ensuring a tight seam. Hold it in place and nail it securely into the cabinet framing.
Join Pieces: For long runs, you may need to join two pieces of molding mid-run. This is called a scarf joint. It’s a 45-degree cut on both pieces, which creates a much less visible seam than a butt joint. Make sure these cuts are precise.

Step 5: Tackling Corners and Seams

Inside Corners: The mitered cuts should meet cleanly. If there’s a small gap, you can fill it with caulk later.
Outside Corners: Ensure the sharp points of the molding meet precisely.
Seams: If you have long cabinet runs, you’ll likely need to join two pieces of molding. A scarf joint (a long, shallow miter cut at a 45-degree angle on both pieces) is the best way to do this for a seamless look. The two cut ends overlap and are glued and nailed together.

Step 6: Securing Long Runs and Using Crown Molding Adhesive

For long runs, don’t rely solely on nails. The crown molding adhesive will be your best friend. Apply it generously along the back edge of the molding before pressing it into place. Clamps can be helpful to hold pieces while the adhesive sets, but be careful not to mar the molding or cabinets. You can also use painter’s tape to hold pieces in place temporarily while the adhesive cures and nails set.

Step 7: Final Touches and Finishing

Once all molding pieces are installed and secured:

Fill Nail Holes: Use wood filler or a putty knife to fill all nail holes. Overfill slightly, as wood filler can shrink as it dries.
Caulk Gaps: Apply a thin bead of paintable caulk to any small gaps between the molding and the cabinet top, or where the molding meets the wall or ceiling if you chose not to have it touch the ceiling. Smooth the caulk with a damp finger or a caulk tool.
Sand: Once the wood filler is dry, gently sand the filled areas smooth. Also, lightly sand any rough edges or imperfections on the molding itself.
Clean: Wipe down the molding to remove all dust from sanding.
Prime and Paint/Stain: Apply a coat of primer to the molding if you plan to paint. Once the primer is dry, paint or stain the molding to match your cabinets or create a contrasting look. You might need two coats for full coverage. If you’re painting, use a high-quality trim brush for clean lines.

This detailed crown molding finishing process will give your kitchen a professionally upgraded appearance.

Troubleshooting Common Issues in Cabinet Crown Molding Installation

Even with careful planning, you might encounter a few snags.

Gaps in Corners: Small gaps in corners can often be filled with paintable caulk after installation. For larger gaps, you might need to recut the molding.
Molding Not Sitting Flat: This can be due to uneven cabinet tops or the cabinet boxes not being perfectly plumb. The adhesive and careful nailing can help compensate for minor inconsistencies. Sometimes, shims are needed, but this is rarely necessary for cabinets.
Nails Splitting the Molding: Use a thinner gauge nail (like 18-gauge) and ensure your nail gun is not set to too high a pressure. Drilling small pilot holes for the first few nails in tricky spots can prevent splitting.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Can I install crown molding on cabinets without a miter saw?
- A: While technically possible with hand saws and a miter box, achieving the precise angles needed for a clean cabinet crown molding installation is extremely difficult and will likely result in visible gaps. A compound miter saw is highly recommended.
Q: What type of nails should I use for installing crown molding on cabinets?
- A: 16-gauge or 18-gauge finishing nails or brad nails are ideal. They are thin enough to minimize splitting and provide good holding power when used with wood glue and adhesive.
Q: How do I attach crown molding if my cabinets don’t have solid framing at the top?
- A: If your cabinets are just particle board or MDF, you’ll need to find solid anchor points. This might involve screwing into the top horizontal support beams of the cabinets, the cabinet sides where they meet the top, or even using longer screws through the top into the cabinet box structure, provided there’s enough material to grip. Crown molding adhesive is particularly important in these cases.
Q: Can I just glue the molding on without nails?
- A: It’s not recommended for a long-lasting and secure installation. While crown molding adhesive provides a strong bond, nails offer immediate support while the glue cures and prevent the molding from shifting. Using both is the best practice for a robust cabinet crown molding installation.
Q: What is the best way to finish the seams where two pieces of molding meet?
- A: For seamless kitchen cabinet trim, use a scarf joint. This involves cutting both pieces of molding at a 45-degree angle, then joining them with wood glue and nails, overlapping them slightly. The cut should be made so the seam is as inconspicuous as possible.
Q: How much overhang should crown molding have on cabinets?
- A: There’s no strict rule, but generally, it’s best to have the molding sit flush with the cabinet face or have a slight overhang (e.g., 1/4 inch) that doesn’t extend beyond the cabinet doors or drawers. Too much overhang can look bulky and interfere with opening doors.

By following these detailed steps and tips, you can successfully install crown molding for upper cabinets, transforming your kitchen with a beautiful, custom finish. This project not only adds visual appeal but also significantly enhances the perceived quality of your kitchen cabinetry.